Isle Royale, September ’23 – Pt 1 Houghton to Three Mile

Houghton, Rock Harbor and Moskey Basin

A blue lake and cloudless sky with a rocky outcropping in the foreground.

Dear reader, in September 2023 my husband Dave and I took our third trip to Isle Royale National Park. These posts are a record of my trip, and almost directly transcribed from the little notebook I carried with me. Anything in italics is a note from Present Me, who finally got around to posting these in March 2024.

Weather Prediction

Date       H            L             Sunrise                 Sunset

9/1         74           37           7:13 a.m.             8:36 p.m.

9/2         82           64           7:14 a.m.             8:34 p.m.

9/3         83           63           7:15 a.m.             8:32 p.m.

9/4         78           64           7:17 a.m.             8:30 p.m.

9/5         79           60           7:18 a.m.             8:28 p.m.

9/6         66           54           7:19 a.m.             8:26 p.m.

9/7         62           54*        7:21 a.m.             8:24 p.m.

9/8         64*        55*        7:22 a.m.             8:22 p.m.

9/9         63*        54*        7:27 a.m.             8:20 p.m.

*=Not NOAA

9/1 – 8 a.m. Ranger III – Houghton

9/9 – Ranger III – Rock Harbor

No rain in the forecast, but gusty winds. May be rainy or cloudy after the 7th. (Tuesday & Wednesday.)

Note: It did, in fact, rain. It went from the last hot days of summer to proper fall overnight.

Rock Harbor 9/8 – Stay

9/9 Depart 9 a.m.

The Ranger III docked inside Rock Harbor.

Weather Report

9/1         Accurate

9/2         Accurate, HOT

9/3         Rain at night, day sunny, hot, accurate

9/4         Accurate, partly sunny

9/5         Accurate, sunny day, t-storm at dark

9/6         Windy RAINY, Cool, Accurate

9/7         Cool, breezy, humic, clear, wind p.m.

9/8         Sunny, cool, accurate, no breeze

9/9         No entry, probably accurate.

Moskey Basin on a misty morning.

What Litter We Packed Out:

•             Camp soap on a rope

•             Broken glass bottle (old)

•             Trekking pole basket (Replacement for mine!)

•             Baby Hulk sticker

•             Knot of embroidery floss

•             Fishing lure, snap swivel

•             Piece of plastic bag

•             Pieces of glass (small) ||||  |||| ||

•             Someone else’s hair tie (ew.)

•             Piece of clear, hard plastic

Oops don’t do that again

Things to do to improve your next visit

•             Factor in how seasickness affects your hike.

•             Take off quickly from boat, pack to go before boat

•             Toothpaste tabs storage options

•             Do not let lotion bar melt in the sun

•             Hot pepper/hot sauce

•             Get another Osprey bladder

•             Camera, lighter, 18-300 mm lens, night photos, longer battery

•             Magnet for dock fishing (1-5 pound pull)

•             Separate corn and beans

•             Ghee tub in Ziploc

•             More tomato sauce leather, a lot

•             Buff for Dave, neck and hair

•             Alternative (???) options Mainland Me does not know what this means.

•             Better rain jacket for Lindsay

•             More fuel always

Animals seen 2023:

  • Two wolves
  • Family of loons, hunting ||
  • Squirrels ထ
  • Mergansers ထ
  • Water snake |
  • Smol toads ထ
  • Gartner snake ထ
  • Egg-laying grasshoppers ||
  • Herons ||||
  • Beavers |||
  • Large woodpeckers |||| (Pileated woodpeckers!)
  • Small woodpeckers |||
  • Snails in the lake (12)
  • Bald Eagle
  • Black fox
  • Red fox |||| |
A red fox making a funny face.

Friday, September 1, 20212

9 a.m. Ranger III Lounge

We’re just past the bridge. It’s a beautiful morning and I think warmer than when we’ve traveled in May. The tops of some trees are already showing their fall colors. My general nausea has been on high alert recently, so I’ve already put my little motion sickness bracelets on. The Ranger has replaced the puke bags with literal chicken take-out buckets.

Ranger III Chat on Boat

  • Filter and chemical treat H20
  • Blue-green algae, “spilled paint,” “pea soup,” “floating globs or mats” – AVOID TOTALLY
  • Channel 16 on boat radio for park help
  • 4 qts per person, per day, of berries you can eat.
  • 2 gallons of apples per person, per day
  • Poo 50 steps from water
  • Soap and dishwashing – 50 steps from water
  • 1000 moose, 31 wolves
  • Foxes steal hiking boots
A tent set up in a wooded campsite, with laundry hanging on the line.

6 p.m. Three Mile Group Camp Site #2

We did not make it to Daisy Farm today. The water was not smooth and my motion sickness got gnarly. I didn’t get to eat any food on the boat. I spent about 5 hours hugging my chicken bucket and staring at the horizon. When we got to Rock Harbor, I went to the shop to eat whatever was around, which was chips and Skittles. So it made more sense to listen to my upset guts and not walk another four miles. All the folks at this campsite are also refugees and wayward hikers. They’re friendly.

7:45 p.m.

We’ve had dinner – rehydrated chicken and shells and cheese.

9:40 p.m.

The sun has set on Isle Royale for the first time for me. The stars are just coming out and I have already found Pegasus. I’m back in the tent (red headlamp.) We will hike to Moskey Basin tomorrow – 8.3 miles. Continuing today would have been a bad plan. I am glad we stopped. There’s a good breeze, and clear skies forecasted. I hope to stargaze properly at Moskey tomorrow.

A merganser duck in the water.