9/8, 2:30 p.m., a picnic table at Rock Harbor.
We’re 1 ½ beers into our day. We ate lunch at the Greenstone Grill, rather than snack on what little nibbles we’ve got left. We are now well stocked on candy and books and a sixer of Keweenaw beer.
We got up this morning and skipped coffee. We got on the trail around 8:30 and were in Rock Harbor by noon. We are at Site 17, and it’s been a few hours so I do not know if we have neighbors in our campsite. Hopefully not, but I won’t be surprised if we do. Today the skies are sunny and bright. There are just a few clouds in the sky. The temperature is cool, but sunny spots make it all feel different. It feels very good to wash my hands. I mailed off postcards. The original four that I picked up in Houghton, and four more. To Aubs, Joe & Randi, Michael, Ryan and Dave’s parents. We have mashed potato dinner plans, and now all the candy you could want.
4:30 p.m. Site 17
The Ranger is here, but the hikers haven’t decamped yet. We’re expecting a melee when they do. Site 17 appears to be too small to share, so here’s hoping for our seclusion.
I hate to leave the island but I know that this is not a place that needs me even if I need it. We’ll be back, always.
5 p.m. Site 17, Rock Harbor
Candy, chips, and mashed potatoes for dinner. Also beer. The finest. I have started reading a new book from the shop. “National Parks and the Woman’s Voice: A History” by Polly Welts Kaufman. It’s the kind of book I like, with lots of citations and tiny print.
6:15 p.m. Camp
I suspect we may have a site all to ourselves tonight. Lucky us. The folks in the overflow site look cramped. We are well-provisioned with candy and chips. Mashed potato and chicken dinner tonight. The veg are gone. We put the last of the cheese in dinner.
Hike report: Real miles 21, mental miles, 23
9/9 9 a.m. Ranger III Passenger Lounge
Leaving the island this time is a little like leaving summer camp. Everyone is friendly and chatty and swapping stories. No one really knows anyone’s name and it doesn’t matter at all. I’ll miss the island. I always do. Dave got a breakfast burrito from the grill, but he thinks they forgot the potato and added more egg instead. There has to be 5-6 eggs in there. He’s not upset.
I took two chewable Dramamines so we will find out if it still zonks me out. I hope not because I want to stare at the island for as long as I can.
9:30 a.m. Ranger – Outside, facing the island
I think I have talked to about half the people on this boat in the last week. The Dramamine has not zonked me out yet and I just ate a muffin. I hope it will sit down and stay there. (It did.)
Trip Tally September 1-9, 20212
Presented without commentary, or explanation.
Nights 8
Greenstones 34
Animals (less wolves) 30 + 20 +20 +20 +1 + 20 +2 +6 +2 + 6 = 148
Wolves x 2 = 300
Miles (Mental) + 23 = 323
Shelter for storm + 50 = 373
Romance + 100 = 473
Food budget + 10 = 486
Gifts received + 20 = 503
Paunch reduction = 10 = 513
Packout points + 23 = 566
Notes unrelated to anything
Types of Bonk on Isle Royale
- In the shelters – watch your head. Dave’s bonks |||, Lindsay’s ||
- On the trail when your body runs out of fuel. Quick sugar.
- In the shelter or a tent between two people who like each other very much.
Glad I had that
- Packable jacket
- Pashmina
- Buff
- Knitting project
- Waterproof boots
Wish I had that
- Gloves below 60 degrees F
- Knit hat
- More coffee, Esbits
- More TP and hand sanitizer
- Hot bullion drink
Potential next time hikes:
Washington Creek -> Hugginin -> Washington Creek -> N. Lake Desor ->Lil Todd -> Todd Harbor -> (Hatchet Lake? Or) McCargo Cove. If McCargoe, ferry out 36 miles, if Hatchet -> Greenstone to West Chickenbone, continue onto Rock Harbor.
Windigo -> McCargoe -> Ferry
Ferry -> Water Taxi -> Middle of the island -> Start hike
Windigo -> Feldtmann, two nights
Island Gifts
Saw TWO wolves 9/2/2023 2:30 p.m.
Replacement trekking pole basket
Two nights shelter 4, Moskey Basin
Fresh apples, 9/2023
Found 34 greenstones
Became skilled greenstone hunters
Daisy Farm shelter 9 for rainy day
Ambient Sounds of Isle Royale
The lapping of the waves
The fwoosh of the Jetboil
The absence of sound
The haunting cry of a loon
The chirps and flutters of the grasshoppers
The call of the ovenbirds
The resonant roll of the big lake
The thunder passing over or past
The pattering rain on the undergrowth
The plopping drips of rain from the shelter roof
The deep horn on a distant ship
