Tag: ducks

Isle Royale Trip Report: Part III – South Lake Desor to Malone Bay

Bugs are to Island Mine what pollinators are to Lake Desor.

Sunday, June 13 1:30 p.m. S. Lake Desor Site 3

 We packed out of Bug Town around 8 this morning and got to the lake around 10:30. We had our pick of sites. The sky was crystal clear blue all morning. I even wore my last remaining pair of clean, dry socks on the trail today. The hike was gently rolling the whole way with gorgeous weather.

This is not a bee. It’s a fly that’s mimicking a bee’s colors. This is just a regular boring ol’ fly, but it’s incognito as something with a stinger. Smart fly.

We got to camp, set down our stuff, snacked (we may have too many snacks now) and took a few minutes to select a site with the best water access. We got the tent up and 6L of water filtered in exactly enough time to see a storm roll in. It’s just a light rain so far, and all of our stuff is safe and dry, but this has put a hamper on the lake wading I wanted to do.

Clouds rolling in from the west over Lake Desor.

If Island Mine is Bug Town, this is Pollinator City. Painted Ladies, Swallowtails, bees, bee-mimics, spiders, grasshoppers. The flowers here are abundant. We’re in the tent right now, hoping the storm is mild and quick.

An actual bee, picking up pollen from thimbleberry flowers.

The other travelers we met are seaplane people who were delayed yesterday due to the thick fog. One couple we met on the trail today seemed bummed because they hadn’t seen a moose yet. They got in late yesterday and stuck to their original travel plans. They hiked 18 miles from Rock Harbor to Lake Desor in one day and planned to hike to Windigo today for a tomorrow departure. These plans strike me as rushed and unfun. The island rewards you for slowing down, and they didn’t have much to say about the scenery. No wonder they hadn’t seen a moose yet.

A handsome daytime moth.

The island gave me a bit of clarity this morning with regard to how to proceed with an annoying personal issue. I feel like the island is a cold place, on a billion-year-old uncaring rock, and there is a lot to love about that. I, too, can learn to evaluate what I need and clearly make my presence unignorable or act with intention that supports myself primarily. A week on the island will give you many gifts if you slow down.

The tiniest baby little grasshopper hopping happily on the undergrowth.

We scared another family of merganser chicks at site 2 here. I might end up napping in this tent.

We napped in the tent during a super pleasant thunderstorm at Lake Desor and this was the view that greeted us when we woke up.

4:30 p.m. – We napped for two hours. It was a gentle pattering rain with the sun high behind low clouds. It’s impossible not to nap under that sound. The skies are clear again. The wind is picking up from the west again but no clue to say what the weather will do. The water access at this site is something else. We waded out onto the big rocks and the crystal-clear water. Island Mine’s water is a light brown with a weak tea flavor, these are the clear unbothered waters of a glacier that melted 10,000 years ago. Lake Desor is about 200 feet above Lake Superior. It is at least 15 degrees cooler by the water than at our campsite. The climb between them is steep. We’re both using walking sticks to go up and down it. Damselfly larvae are hatching in abundance just further down shore.

A little dragonfly nymph emerging from Lake Desor. We sat there for a few minutes literally watching its little wings harden, which is bonkers.

This is the kind of lake where every shore looks like trees are about to fall right into the water. The little islands in the lake look like evergreen punch bowls. This lake is full of glacial erratics.

It’s tough to take pictures of those punch bowl islands, but I swear they’re in this picture.

The wind is giving the lake a shimmering effect in the long waning sun. There are so many swallowtails here. Tiny whitecaps on the lake. The north side of the lake is primarily pines and conifers. To the east of us is a stark stand of aspens – tall, branchless and bright in the sunlight. Here on the south side is a mix of cedar, aspens, birches and a few pines. Our campsite is full of thimbleberry flowers.

Dave just found the tiniest snail next to the biggest slug on a beaver-chewed stick.

The biggest snail Dave ever found, and just above it you’ll see the smallest snail. It’s a real Odd Couple situation on this stick, but they make it work.

The plan is to get another early start tomorrow and try to get to Malone Bay at 1 or 2. The whole trip is 10.8 miles – the longest hike with a heavy pack either of us have ever done. Earlier in the trip Dave was psyching himself out about it. The #2 longest hike ever with a heavy pack we have ever done was the hike from Feldtmann Lake to Siskiwit Bay. He feels way more confident in his abilities now.

This flower looks exactly like an asparagus spear, but red, before it flowers. I genuinely thought they were some weird, wild asparagus but nope. Anyway, don’t forage and eat foods if you don’t know what they are and that’s advice for life.

We have seen two kinds of orchids so far. A dozen pink lady slippers, and one yellow orchid with tendrils that looked like pigtails. I did not get a photo of the second one because we were hiking in the rain.

The first little snake I was able to get an eye on. I found at least half a dozen lurking in the waning sunlight of our campsite.

6:45 p.m. – Our campsite is Snake Central. I’ve chased off four or five so far. One was close to an inch thick – which was the only good look I had at it.

This wasn’t the thickest snake I saw (I think) but he did hang around for a long while. I don’t think there are any poisonous snakes on Isle Royale.

Dave found two giant moths (Luna moths!) copulating, which is nuts. They must have followed each other’s scents for miles. This is a romantic spot, so that makes sense.

Luna moths! Two of them! The lady of the pair lets out some pheremones into the air when she is ready to do such a thing, and then the male of the species follows that scent for miles and miles until they find each other. I guess normally, they like to do this in the midnight hour (a time for romance) so I was very lucky to see them in broad daylight, right along the trail. Who knew luna moths were exhibitionists?
A view from the other side. I understand that once a pair of luna moths start getting funky, the process can last several hours, and they won’t stop.

BAD OUTHOUSE. (Don’t ask. It was gross.)

7:20 p.m.  – A tiny and very brief r a i n b o w.

A little rainbow! A little guy! All the colors are in there, you just have to look.

8:15 p.m. – Red sky low on the horizon. Good weather tomorrow maybe? We’re watching another dark cloud roll in now.

8:40 p.m. – Not sure but maybe we heard a wolf pack howl? Either that or it was a pack of fox kits? Or there are some jovial campers nearby.

If I had two or three days to just chill at a campsite, Lake Desor would be a top candidate.

June 14 6:10 a.m. (Still L. Desor)

Clear skies (sorta) today. Beautiful weather for a long hike. 10.8 miles to Malone Bay and our last full day here.

Malone Bay, a couple of geese, a gaggle of goslings, and not another human for miles and miles.

3:10 p.m. Malone Bay #1

We made it. We hiked 50 miles in heavy packs.

Clear waters as far as the eye can see, and a pebbly beach to comb at sunset.

The bay is just breathtaking. The lake stretches to the horizon. There are some huge rocks to sit and sun on. The water is icy and clear. If it were warmer, I’d jump in. I think Siskiwit Bay was warmer but there isn’t a single other soul in sight here. We’ve seen exactly one other person on the trail today and he was coming from here. I know I don’t want to do that hike going up, down was tough enough.

Clear waters and undeniable evidence of the power of glaciers over time.

The hike was arduous. Leg 1 to Ishpeming Point was a 400-foot climb over 3.5 miles. Ish. Point to Lake Siskiwit was a 600-foot drop over 3.5 miles and you have to walk on top of the beaver dam where the trail is washed out. The third leg from S. Lake to camp was the toughest. There is more up and down than you expect, and it just. keeps. going. Someone in Windigo told Dave that the last leg “fucks with you” and now I know what they mean, and I agree.

When you get there, there’s not another soul in sight, and this is the view from your campsite.

This is the nicest campground with the least traffic, this whole trip. A winner’s circle in a way. Mashed potatoes, chicken, veggies and cheese for dinner. The boat comes for us at 10 a.m. tomorrow. We’re in a shelter so no need for a tent.

Today you could not ask for better weather. Fuck black flies though.

Another one of those little punch bowl islands, except this one is much bigger and out in the big lake.

They told us on the Voyageur II last week that the last was 33 degrees, and here you can absolutely feel that. Your toes get numb after a few minutes in the lake. The air is absolutely beautiful though. The sky is warm, bright and sunny. One of those glorious Lake Superior days you always hope for. The terrain down was so rough and uneven we all have barking dogs and aching ankles. That hike was tough. It is mentally and physically exhausting to walk on terrain that chaotic and uneven for so long. I don’t think there was a single flat-footed step I took those last 3.5 miles.

I want you to pay attention to the tiny crescent moon in the corner because it is dreamy.

My camera is low on battery, and I have space for about 75 more photos. Eep.

Brook trout in the mouth of the nearby river. We saw them while walking over the bridge. Might have just seen a goshawk go by, on the hunt for fish.

Site 1 plus: Excellent sunset view.

Minus: All afternoon sunbake.

The best view of sunset I had the whole trip, which works out because I was too tired to stay up for sunset most of the trip.

We both feel fitter and stronger.

I think when you come to Isle Royale it evaluates what you’re about and it rewards you, or doesn’t reward you, depending on your intentions. It plays by its own rules, and it won’t teach them to you. Since time immemorial it has rewarded those who come here with good intentions and not-rewarded those without the island’s rules or interests at heart. Want to find copper for tools? Yes, copper for you. Want copper for profit? No copper for you. Want to slow down, take it all in, and have a willingness to plan for a difficult journey? Yes, you get to experience wildlife in great abundance. Want to speed down the Greenstone and spend 48-hours or less on the island? No moose for you. Come with open eyes, willing hearts, and reasonable expectations? That’s like being wrapped in a wool blanket by someone who loves you without question or hesitation. Put up with bug town? See two giant moths making more moths. Come with no plan, provisions, skills or trusted people on the mainland providing promised support? Starve to death. (Literally, that happened.) The island rewards you for preparing, slowing down, patience, adaptability, and willingness to embrace discomfort. It does not reward cutting corners or speed. On the sunken wreck of the steamship America, there is a Model T Ford. I have to wonder what the intentions of the person bringing a car to this roadless island were, and if the island didn’t intervene to keep the island car-free.

This is a place where extremes find balance. The sun is baking my skin right now, but if I put my feet in the lake for too long, my toes will go numb. I don’t dare wade in.

I really could not get over the sky and water at Malone Bay.

7:00 p.m. – What makes a moose run? Was he running from something? For the joy of it? Was it a recently liberated yearling just getting a feel for his hooves? Google this when you get home. (Update, I don’t have a good answer and I have googled it. If you know what makes a moose gallop, please let me know.)

I’m just one lady who can’t stop thinking about cloud formations.

8:00 p.m. – It’s easy to see the different air currents here, just look at the cloud layers. Especially when winds come from the west. They just break up in all directions when they hit the island like that.

Still no one else here. The nearest humans as the crow flies would be at Hatchet Lake – an 11-mile uphill hike from here. The nearest ones I could talk to? No good answer. We’re about 20 miles on foot from Windigo. Hope the Voyageur II is on time tomorrow. Clear skies tonight. (Normally, there is a ranger station at Malone Bay, and I could rely on them to help me in the event my ferry was delayed or something. The ranger station at Malone Bay is closed this year, so if you go there, don’t count on being able to find a ranger.)

8:45 p.m. – Found a pebbly beach nearby. We’re likely to stay up and see the sunset tonight – the first of the whole trip! Spotted a beaver swimming in the lake around 8:30 p.m. What was it looking for?

That little blip in the foreground? That’s a beaver. In Lake Superior! Will wonders never cease.

Tuesday, June 15 8 a.m., Site 1 Malone Bay

Another glorious day and an easy rest day. The boat comes for us at 10 a.m. (hope they remember!) and all we have to do is hike the .3 miles to the dock. I am packed. Dave may take the full two hours. (He did not, he only took one full hour.)

I took one photo of myself, and so it’s the best you’re going to get.

We slept in this morning! Until 6:15 a.m.! The latest I have gotten up in a week. We have two granola bars left, some cookies, cheese and jerky. There’s a 3L of Lake Superior water coming with us. The seas are smooth as glass from my view in the bay. Not one cloud in the sky today. The Milky Way was out last night. The Isle Royale lighthouse was lit. The shoal can get to be as shallow as 3 or 4 feet over there. This shelter had the best graffiti of the whole trip. “Cowabunga it is then,” – Abe Slinkin.

Honestly, I find myself living by a similar motto very often. Thanks for the wise words, Abe Slinkin.

11:30 a.m. – On the Voyageur II. I can’t believe that worked. Dave and I hiked over to the closed ranger station around 9 and waited there. The ferry came sailing into harbor, and we boarded at 10:05 a.m.

The Voyageur II made it right on time. They’re professionals, so I shouldn’t doubt them.

The lake is smooth today, but we’re still in the quiet waters of the park. I had a few cookies (let’s hope I hold onto them). Sailing past Rainbow Cove now.

It’s a strange and wonderful thing to hike all over the corner of one, magnificent, island over the course of a week, and then view your entire hike by boat in about 3 hours.

Epilogue

The Voyaguer II made one more stop at Windigo to pick up departing passengers before we headed back to Grand Portage. There was a party that wanted to leave the island ahead of schedule, and another that had changed their plans to leave that day, so the boat was overbooked. For a moment, Dave and I debated hopping off, giving our seats to two others, and staying another four days. Unfortunately, we were out of water purifying tablets and didn’t feel ready to take on that risk. The ferry got pretty crowded after that, but Dave and I managed to plant ourselves on the seats at the back of the boat. I get motion sick very easily, so I wanted to be prepared to stare at an unmoving horizon the whole time.

The one lone radio tower that exists on Isle Royale. There is no wi-fi, your cell phone is useless, but if you have a radio you might do okay.

I think the island evaluated my intentions when I arrived and rewarded me with smooth easy seas the whole ride back. I was able to watch the island as I sailed past, leaving Malone Bay, rounding The Head and ultimately sailing into Washington Harbor. Everything I could see, I hiked in the previous week. I kept my eyes fixed on Isle Royale the whole boat ride home. While other passengers napped or fidgeted with their phones the second cell reception came back, I couldn’t bring myself to do it. It almost seems rude to check your email while Isle Royale is still within sight. I regret not letting those other folks take our spot on the ferry.

Click here to read Isle Royale Trip Report: Part I – Voyageur II, Feldtmann Lake, and Siskiwit Bay

Click here to read Isle Royale Trip Report: Part II – Island Mine and Windigo

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The Rock of Ages lighthouse greets visitors as they come and go from the western end of the island. I am confident this won’t be the last time I see it.