Arguing with myself: Chicago winters are stunning and important

Introduction

Dear reader,

I started working on this piece in late January when winter was settling in for real, but before the deep freeze took hold. What follows are my subjective feelings about how that went. I was prepared to post Part 1 last week but we were in the midst of a 17-day stretch of subfreezing temperatures where the snow just wouldn’t stop coming, and I had to rethink my whole position. I still stand by everything I said in both this piece and that, but it felt disingenuous not to acknowledge both sides of this coin. (The same goes for last week’s piece about why homelessness is bullshit and should not exist, and that it’s appropriate for the camping community to consider the relationship between those two things. Thank you to everyone who helped us raise over $1,000 to end homelessness in Chicago.)

Today, you can read Part 1, The Idealist. Tomorrow, enjoy Part 2, The Realist. Sign up here to be notified.

Part 1 – The Idealist

A few weeks ago Natalie Moore tweeted something accurate about winter on social media. Natalie is correct. It is cliché and boring to brag about the weather being not-cold where you are, when places with four complete seasons are experiencing their coldest one. Since I am not commuting this winter, my main exposure to it is by shoveling the pile of snow that won’t stop accumulating and walking my boot-averse dog around the block. My desk is pushed up against a window overlooking my backyard. From here, I watch the weather change, seasons advance, wildlife arrive and depart, and lights flip on and off in my neighbors’ apartments. Where I sit, I have a front-row seat to the year-round performance of Chicago in its natural state.  

People, not just Chicago, tend to talk about winter as if it’s a nuisance, or a bad thing. I refuse to do this anymore. Cold is good. Winter inspires awe because of snow. Every year I’ve spent on this earth has seen winter, some milder than others. This one started late, we didn’t get our first big accumulation until after Christmas. I suspect it’s going to be a late spring. It’s easy to whine about winter, but those mild ones without much snow, or without a good, hard frost, leave me more depressed. They tend to take three or four times as long as the cold, snowy ones.

Snow is a kinetic sculpture. The first snowfall this season fell in fine flakes, delicate enough to hang lazily from thin juniper needles and cling even to tiny branches. When it finished falling there was no surface left indelicately covered anywhere in the city. The next snowstorm brought flakes that were too heavy for such delicate work. Unless caught by a sturdy branch, or worn like a hat on tree galls, it was too heavy to stay above the ground. Too wet. I heard it fall off my roof with heavy thuds. The snow that fell on tree branches clung there, like it was too afraid to let go and fall to the ground. Its presence on the branch created more surface which allowed, funny enough, more snow to cling uncomfortably. Physics and temperature dictate the shape and motion of this sculpture.

The morning after the first heavy snow I filled a bird feeder with sunflower seeds. Using an old garden rake and an open window, I placed it gently on top of the fresh accumulation on my deck. The sun caused crystals to melt and restructure the sculpture. A few days later the feeder had sunk a little as the snow melted and birds found it. No human has stepped foot back there since the storm, however, days later the surface was marked by tiny pairs of footprints. Here the sculpture lives in the negative. In the early morning, when the sun was still rising in the low eastern sky, the angle of the light highlighted those footprints as tiny shadows. Visitors include dark eyed juncos, cardinals, mourning doves, blue jays, and finches. Even the heaviest bird who visits my feeder weighs just a fraction of a pound. Their footprints suggest a wild, harried party took place, with the feeder at the center of the festivity. The parties that do arrive are small. Red house finches arrive in pairs, secure one seed each and flap off to eat it in peace. Jays know how to empty a dance floor. As the sun continues to rise, the shadows disappear. The sparkling layer of frosty flakes on top of the mountain of white that coats my deck possesses a magic quality that inspires artists, and capitalists mimic. Even their best work is just an ersatz copy. Sunlight works to destroy all evidence of the dance done by my avian visitors. Given enough time and sunshine, the first things to disappear are those footprints.

A later prediction turned out to be a heavy, wet dud. The forecast said it would be anywhere from 2-12 inches of accumulation. What we got was an inch and a half of the kind of falling slush that leaves your woolen hat soaked and your sidewalks icy. For weeks, the cold has been in league with the snow. The polar vortex settled in over a weekend. It was the kind of cold that you can hear coming. The old plaster walls in my house creaked and groaned as the chill caused sudden constrictions. For weeks I checked the basement sink every day to make sure it was still dripping. The cold is not unusual, but how long it sits on top of us is. Air travels differently now that the jet stream is weak, so cold snaps last longer than they used to. The snow that followed came silently and unannounced. It snuck in without warning. Fat, crystalline flakes fell weightlessly. It was very pretty from indoors, behind a window and under a blanket. In Chicago’s history, this is among the top five lengths of time with this much snow on the ground.  

The snow outside my window created a high contrast world. The flakes fell from nowhere visible because they matched the color of the sky. They fell to nowhere visible because they matched the ground. The falling snow was the same color as every roof, sidewalk, yard, parkway, tops of tree branches, porch railing, and the whole, flat sky. I watched the flakes fall in the positive. I saw them in the moments where snow was not already. I watched them flit past a tree branch, the neighbor’s siding, a darkened garage window, or the red breast of the cardinal singing by the feeder. Over the course of a day the hills of snow on every surface grew a few inches. A demonstration of what collective action can lead to, even when you can’t see how it started or where it will end.

Heavy blankets of snow illuminate the night. All summer the moonlight soaks into the earth, but when snow covers everything, all that light reflects back. I’ve slept under the full moon reflected off snow so bright and undisturbed you’d think a streetlight was pointing in my window. I did a lot of reading as a kid, using the moonlight reflected off the glassy snow outside late into the night. Back then it was easy to see winter as the cyclical magic that it is. As a kid I eagerly constructed snowmen, rolling them carefully down the hill in my yard. Now, I like to walk around the neighborhood when snow is fresh. It’s the best time to see all your neighbors at once. Shoveling, playing, sledding, pushing cars. I keep track of the weather and calendar to see how long it takes for the neighborhood snowmen’s heads to roll off their bodies and plop onto the ground.

I refilled my bird feeder one afternoon and hours later it was half-buried in fresh accumulation. The little roof over the feeder provided some protection. I didn’t pull it out of the snow because I was curious to see who would find it. This free buffet is known to jays, cardinals, finches, one small mouse, plus the squirrels. I’m not terribly discerning about who I invite to my winter feasts. The rats know about it, but they’re less greedy than you would think. Just after dark, I can watch them from inside. The snow was still falling when the rats had tunneled who-knows-how-far to be the first to dine. For the next week or so the birds were scarce but most of the seeds were still there. Despite the long cold snap, even rats know to share.

Living with four full seasons is awe-inspiring every year. The air in winter is tangibly different than the air in summer. July coddles you with humidity and sunshine. February forces you to attention, it brings your blood to your face. Shoveling snow reminds me how strong I am. Perpetual 80-degree sunny days might sound nice, and maybe they are, I don’t know. Where I live, that first forty-degree day feels like hope, and that couldn’t be true without the feel of subzero air in your nostrils.

Myakka River State Park, Florida

Spanish Moss at Myakka River State Park, Florida

Name: Myakka River State Park
Location: 13208 State Road 72, Sarasota, FL 34241

Size: 37,000 acres, 14 miles of Myakka River itself within the park, 38.9 miles of nature trails including a canopy-level suspension bridge available to hikers and researchers
Created: Myakka River State Park is one of the largest and oldest parks in Florida, it was delineated in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps
Activities: Hiking, biking, backpacking, camping, bicycling, birding, canoeing and kayaking, boat tours are very popular here
Pros: Stunning wildlife, big skies, remote camping, excellent birding, great hikes
Cons: Can be crowded and busy around the visitors center, try to get there early in the day if you plan on taking a boat tour as the wait can get quite long

Camp Thunderbird Vitamin D Intensive Excursion

I’m a sucker for big skies.
 ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Dave and I boarded a plane to Sarasota last February to visit his retiree parents in Florida. Normally, when we head down there our trip tends to overlap with spring break so we coordinate with his brother’s kids’ school schedule. That year, we weren’t able to make it happen, so Dave and I went down over Presidents’ Day Weekend.

Air plants are super cute, you guys.

Retiree vacation is awesome, you guys. Florida trips with kids tend to revolve entirely around the kids and their schedules and their needs. And that’s all fine and good, sure. But a couple of thirtysomething adults hanging out with a couple of sixtysomething adults, operating on their sixtysomething schedule is the life, man. Wake up around 8 or 9 a.m. Get mad at the news. Eat some breakfast. Go kayaking for an hour or so. Then lunch. Then naptime, or reading for a while. Maybe you’ll visit the beach in time for sunset. Maybe your parents’ retired friends brought enough daquiris to share on the beach. Then you eat a half rack of ribs, drink a glass of wine with an ice cube in it and go to bed at 9:30 p.m. Retiree life is great.

Some kind of toothy critter. Raccoon maybe?

Dave and I did take one day to go on a nice, long hike as long as we were in Florida in February which is the ideal season for hiking down there. Temperatures hung around 80 degrees. There were no pesky bugs. The sky was clear and blue and big. We chose Myakka River State Park because we could drive there in about 45 minutes from where we were staying and because we could get probably an 8 or 9 mile hike in. That’s long enough to take all day, but not long enough to totally exhaust you. We were on vacation, after all.

Bee Island.

There was very little planning done between deciding on Myakka River and deciding on which trail in the park. There are almost 40 miles of trails in the park, many of them leading to remote, primitive campsites. This would be an ideal place for wintertime backpacking, if someone wanted to spend a night on a dry prairie possibly surrounded by Florida panthers.

If Florida still looked like this everywhere, we’d probably all be in better shape.

We arrived at the Visitors Center, got the lay of the land, and chose to leave our car parked in the main lot by the lake while we hiked to Ranch House Road, past Bee Island and then around the dry prairie for a while until the sun began to wane.  

The entrance to Ranch House Road.
A marker where the ranch house the road was named after used to be.

The wildlife at Myakka River State Park is stunning. We saw huge flocks of ducks, herons, ravens, Ibis, egret and probably others I didn’t recognize. As we were driving in, Dave noticed a rather large ground snail right in the middle of the paved road and navigated around so he didn’t run over it. As we were passing, he noticed the nearby raven clearly keeping an eye on things. I’m pretty sure this raven knows that cars crack open delicious snails when they run over them. I’m pretty sure this raven tried to use us a tool. Ravens are really smart, you guys.

Neon pink lichens.

While we were out on the prairie, we saw evidence of what I suspect was the Florida panther. Big cats have been making a comeback in recent years (praise hands emoji) and there have been sightings in the region. The evidence that I saw was a very large, furry scat.

Big cat scat?

Myakka River has two of what they claim are the world’s largest airboats. That’s probably true, I didn’t investigate. We arrived shortly after noon to find a Visitors Center bustling with bored-looking tourists. I guess the airboat tour is very popular, and I can see why, but no small part of the reason we came to the park was to wander about in the solitude of nature. So we quickly walked away. If you wanted to take the airboat tour, I would recommend arriving early in the day before things get too crowded. We did have ice cream and bought beer coozies in the visitors center, so I can easily endorse ice cream and beer coozies.

A handsome anole.
Snake sheds.
I mean, herons are pretty much the most gorgeous birds that ever was.

(Also they totally look like dinosaurs.)

Wildlife spotted:
Anole, Black vulture, Blue heron, Crocodile, Ground dove, Tricolored heron, Snowy Egret, Red-Shouldered hawk, Coconut palm, Spanish moss, Cabbage palmetto, waterlilies, asters, ferns



Go ahead you earned it, boo. #selfcare